This is the "Long-Line" desk pen (bottom). It is shown here with a "Fat-Line" (top) for comparison. There are any number of variations in what we can do with the cap end. This one is the one that we will be making. It is a simple smooth taper and no finials. Most of us will find it the more difficult to turn, but it is the one that is most popular with the folks who buy our pens.
"The Wood"
The wood for the "long-Line: pen is cut with the grain because it will be stronger and easier to turn at the small end. This is not the time for sawing on a bias with the grain for the beauty of it. Note that the grain in the two pens in the photo are different. The "Fat-Line" (top) was sawn at an angle with the grain, and the "Long-Line" (bottom) is sawn along the grain. It is also important that the grain be matched between the top and bottom halves for this pen. A desktop holder is not the place for mismatched wood or slight differences in color.
There is no limit to how long we can make the top of the pen. For practical purposes, I make cut the wood for these pens at an 8" length.
If you are using the purchased pen blanks, this length can be obtained by using (1) full length blank and (1) half-length blank. There can be a problem with matching the grain. I would recommend using burl wood because the grain and color is less important.
The long blanks are marked to identify the pieces and keep the grain oriented across the center joint.
Determine which end will make the better end for the thin top end.
Mark the cut to separate the two halves. Make the short piece long enough for trimming after it is drilled. 3/8" longer than the brass tube is a good length.
Cut the two barrel blanks apart where it was marked.
I use a cut-off saw because the smooth end makes it easier for the drill bit to start in the center of the wood.
Be careful that the end is square and as smooth as possible if a bandsaw or handsaw is used to cut the lengths. The wood grain can be enough of a challenge to starting the drill into the wood, and a rough or sloped surface makes it more difficult.
Drilling the short blank is no different from that of the "Slim-Line". It would be useful to review the drilling techniques discussed in "The Basics - Drilling the pen blanks"
Always start the drill from the "center" end of the pen blank. That will keep the grain matched and put any torn grain as the drill breaks through the wood at the other end of the blank.
Cut the blank to length on the "Other End".
Here is where using a drill press makes the drilling easier. Clamp the long blank in the vise with the "center" end up.
Start the drill press and bring the bit down to where it is just starting to drill a hole. The longer piece can present a challenge if it is badly warped and crooked. "Fudge" the drilling off-center if necessary.
Switch it to OFF, and lock the spindle with the bit touching the wood.
Adjust the spindle "Stop" to where it is 1/8" longer than the length of the brass tube.
All of the holes should be drilled to the same depth into the wood. Check each pice of wood before drilling. They may be of different lengths.
If we are using the lathe, or a drill press without a "Stop", it will be more difficult to make the hole the correct depth, and to drill multiple pieces to the same depth..
Drilling all of the holes to the same depth will make them a better "fit" on the modified mandrel that we will be using.
Cut the short blank to 1/8" longer than the brass tube, making the cut on the other end from where we started the drill.
